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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.